Thursday, January 12, 2012

5.13d on trad gear at Ceuse

Here is a video of French climber Arnaud Petit sending a 65m 5.13d at Ceuse. The route is Black Bean, previously rated 8b+ (or .14a). On gear, Dave Macleod figures it's an E10 (!) 7a. With 30m fall potential on gear in suspect rock, that seems justified. One of the cooler aspects of this video is how Petit stays composed on some huge runouts over horizontal cams and wires. Not only does he keep it together mentally, but he continues to use momentum in his movement, rather than climb statically. It's also cool to see the huge arcs of rope draping in the air between the pro and his belayer, as well as the nice long whipper at the end.

It's a longer climbing video for one pitch, even at 215 feet, but it's great visualization for efficient, composed climbing over huge runouts. Critics might complain about the bailout option of bolts on this "retro-trad" climb. The point of posting this is to show the composure and committed movement on challenging terrain - 5.13d. It's likely that Petit is pumped, but he doesn't really show it. He climbs with confidence and clean movement. Pretty impressive with 100 foot runouts.


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