Friday, January 21, 2011

being smart when dealing with an "itis"

I'm at the point where I can say that I have full control over my elbow pain.

Over the past couple of years, I had debilitating tendinitis. It took some time to develop.  Probably 15 years or more. At first it was barely noticeable, but eventually it grew to sharp pain - during activity and rest.

I was faced with some painful symptoms. But here is a list of what was really going on with me:
1. A tendency to overstress my connective tissue. Early on I had a desire to climb hard, so I climbed and trained as much as I could. Even with a full course load. Even with a full-time work week. Even with another sport.
2. Undisciplined use of my time. If I had time, I would push into deep fatigue finishing a climbing day or workout session. I would emphasize quantity, and I may have overlooked quality.
3. Inability to recognize occupational effects. I was taught to carry a comprehensive pack when guiding (stacked or coiled second rope on long routes, client's gear, practically the